mmm, Food
Before leaving on my trip, my friends talked me into hosting a dinner of Turkish food when I get back. I doubt I'll be able to pull off meals as good as what I've had here, but so far this is what I'm thinking.
To start:
Main meal:
- Salad of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and olives with olive oil and lemon juice for dressing
- Kebabs cooked over coal, probably chicken because I have no idea how to make lamb
- Fries (no skins!) with ketchup and mayo
- Raki for the drinkers, ayran for the rest. If they don't want either of those, I'll charge them for water.
Dessert:
- Turkish coffee and I will pretend to I know how to read their fortunes from the grounds
- The most delicious watermelon, strawberries and honeydew I can find
If that all gets too complicated, I'll just give up and make potatoes
The key to recreating a Turkish meal is not so much copying the individual flavors, but the ambiance. Everyone who comes over will be signing up for at least 3 or 4 hours of dwindling over plates of food and raki. Perhaps we'll eat on the patio, but getting eaten alive by bugs in Kansas isn't quite the same as the wonderful cafes where shade and a gentle breeze bring the temperature from unbearably hot to perfect.
One thing that I won't be able to show them is the fun of dancing and shaking a tambourine to traditional Turkish music like we did here in Istanbul, but I think we'll have a good time.
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False Assumptions
When I signed up to study in Turkey, I was not expecting to end up like this. Soaked in muddy water with scraped knees, and nursing a sore foot from walking barefoot until finding someone's lost shoe to finish the end of the trek. A hike through Saklikent Gorge is definitely not what first comes to mind when you think of Turkey.
When I told people I was going to Turkey, a common reaction was "Why would you want to go there? They [insert some terrible characteristic]." So I think it's time to clear up some misconceptions that my friends and family have about Turkey.
"You're going to have to wear a burka, and they don't let women in public.
We have had more interactions with Turkish men than women, but I think that is more due to primarily men working in hotels, shops and restaurants where we've spent the most of our time. I've seen head-to-toe burkas - the black gowns where only the eyes show - once in my two weeks in Turkey, and it might have been a group of tourists. Head scarves are common, but not the norm, especially with younger women. Even women who cover completely find a way to do it fashionable, to the point that I would really love to own some of their clothes. I think Turkey has pushed the division of state and religion a bit too far, actually, since students aren't able to wear scarves to state universities.
"You're going to be killed by terrorists because Turkey borders Iraq."
Yeah, the countries share a border, but the distance from Istanbul to Baghdad is about the same as the distance from my house in Prairie Village to the drug wars happening in Mexico. I'm not scared.
Istanbul is a city of 12+ million people. Crime happens. I'm not going to wander down dark alleys alone or leave lira hanging out of my pocket, but terrorists? Not so much. Even with all the hubbub with Israel, I've only seen a handful of graffiti or signs expressing outrage. When we asked at the synagogue, the man giving us a tour said he hasn't experienced any sort of animosity. It seems like everyone is busy going about their day and pretty committed to get along.
"You're going to get spit on, because they all hate Americans."
I've seen opinion polls showing that 70% of Turks disapprove of Americans, but I have yet to experience anything but hospitality from the people I've met. Every time I've traveled, I've gone home and said the people were amazing, but I feel like Turkey is in a league of its own. Our tour guides feel more like rent-a-friends than guides. Each one has gone above and beyond - offering to take us out on the town, giving us watermelon, walking us to our bus terminal, inviting us out for drinks, friending us on Facebook, etc.
Everyone is so hospitable that I actually find it difficult to navigate. At what point am I being rude turning down offers? Or, conversely, when am I taking advantage of their kindness? When we prodded one our friends for why he was doing so much for us, he said he wanted us to know what Turkish people were really like, not the stereotypes of the Middle East, so that people could know how great Turkey is. It's working.
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Christianity in a Muslim Nation
Before coming to Turkey, I was expecting to visit places that are important in the history of Islam and learn more about that faith, but I've been surprised by how many places we've visited that are important in the Catholic tradition, which I was raised in. Although I can count the times I've been to Mass in the last five years on one hand (sorry Grandma), I can't help but feel these places are a part of my history. Constantinople was an important city in the early days of Christianity. Constantine, the man from whom the city got its name, declared the Christian faith the official religion of the empire. The city served as the Eastern capital of the Church, while Rome ruled over the west. Side by side in Istanbul are the Hagia Sophia and St. Irene's. Dating from the 6th century and 4th century, respectively, both building show the progression of attitudes toward Christianity and religion over time. When the Muslim Ottomans sacked Constantinople, they allowed the church to continue operating, but would store weaponry and artifacts in the building. Now, in secular Turkey, the church is used as a concert hall.
Saint Irene's
Hagia Sophia was such an impressive structure (a topic in and of itself) that the Mehmed the Conqueror had it converted to a mosque, and it remained one until the Republic of Turkey converted it to a museum. In the conversion, the Sultan ordered artists to cover over much of the Christian symbolism. The design the artist used included a fish, an early symbol of Christians, in order to communicate to those in the faith that the Church was still there, even if the building was taken. Looking at the paintings centuries later, it's easy to see what was original and what was the cover up.
Paintings in the Hagia Sophia
By far, the most surprising place to visit was our trip to the final home of the Virgin Mary. She and John the Baptist fled the persecution of early Christians and settled outside Ephesus. As far as tourist attractions go, it isn't much. A cistern, a small stone house, a spring and a wishing wall. It's almost laughable when you compare it to the majesty of the Vatican or the ornate mosaics at Hagia Sophia. But this humble house on the top of a hill thousands of miles from Jerusalem was the greatest reminder of the faith I've visited. To touch the walls built by an old woman who would travel thousands of miles, much of it probably by foot, to flee persecution and spread the word of something she believed in is much more impressive and humbling to me than a thousand gold gilded artifacts or Renaissance artworks.
Mary's Final Home
This next photo summarizes the dynamic of religions in Turkey. The column in the front marks the Temple of Artemis. It was originally a pagan goddess, but renamed by the Greeks. To the left are the ruins of the Basilica of St John the Baptist, where his remains laid until the Crusades. Immediately to it's left is a mosque, currently in use. Layers upon layers of traditions.
Temple of Artemis
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Where am I again?
After a couple days in Istanbul, I can't help but wonder if this city is an elaborate Rorschach test. What would you like to see?
Byzantine mosaics? No big deal.
Greek sculpture? Yep.
Roman ruins? Sure!
One of the seven wonders of the world and one of the oldest churches? Just head over the Hagia Sophia.
A secular, liberal Islam state? Yepper.
If museums aren't really your thing, there is a vibrant night life and wonderful cafes with gorgeous views.
The history here is long, and Istanbul was a vibrant, diverse city before the United States existed. Istanbul was the seat of the Ottoman empire for over 600 years. The empire spread across northern Africa, into eastern Europe and Asia, encompassing many different languages, cultures and religions. When Europe was in the middle of the Dark Ages, Istanbul was a center of culture and learning whose influence was felt throughout the known world.
Trying to untangle thousands of years of history, culture and meaning in three weeks will be a feat. I think I could spend thirty years in Turkey and only begin to scratch the surface of this dynamic place.
This is what studing abroad is all about and AnyCollege.com is here to help you find a school that can lead you on this path.
This is a new blog series we will be offering over the next couple of weeks. One of the users of AnyCollege.com is going to Turkey to study abroad and will be blogging throughout her trip. So be sure and check out what she sends us!
Onward to Istanbul
Over the past couple weeks, everyone has been asking me why I'm going to Turkey or what's there (well, after getting done singing They Might Be Giants at me). My default answers have been "because I can" and "I'll let you know when I get back", which isn't far from the truth. I have no idea what I'm getting myself into. I've been out of the country before - Lithuania, Russia, a mad dash across Europe, Mexico - so I know what it's like to be in a place that's completely foreign. It has been seven (!) years since I've been abroad, and who knows how the experience of travel will be different since my life has become more settled, and I've established a routine. I am looking forward to the struggle to accomplish things I take for granted here, like buying a cup of coffee. I can't wait to have that thrill and exhaustion of everything being novel again. Turkey will be the first Islamic country I'll visit. I am excited to hear the call to prayer and visit some famous mosques, but hopefully avoid the challenges of traveling to a place such as Iran. I'm curious to see how much antipathy I'll run into. With tensions flaring between Turkey and Israel, it will be interesting to see how that manifests on the streets of Istanbul. So, what do I expect? Who knows? I'm treating this trip like the rest of my life - I show up, make the best of it, and see what happens.
The great thing about going to college is that you have all kinds of opportunities to spread your wings. Studying abroad is one of those opportunities and too few students are taking advantage of it. Many schools and universities offer study abroad programs, some are better than others, but all of them offer a unique chance for students to step out of their comfort zones and better themselves.
Thousands of students head off to foreign lands every summer. From England to Australia, South Africa to Spain, there are many places to go. You may never have an opportunity like this again in your life to take off for a few months and immerse yourself in a different country and culture. The best part is that you get to earn course credits while you are there!
It's not all about learning a foreign language either, although it is a great opportunity to. Many students go to further their education in whatever particular area of study they are majoring in. Business, foreign language, communications and international relations are just a sampling of what you can study overseas. It also something you can put on your resume after you graduate.
Some students may be scared off due to the potential cost involved or because they would be away from home for so long. Don't fret, that's a normal feeling. Students who have studied abroad often felt the same way before taking the plunge, but they comeback being so thankful they were able to go. They often return to campus with their eyes wide open and with a new insight into how they fit into the world.
"I was so sad when it was over," stated Laura Paterra, who went on a study abroad trip to Italy. "I remember crying on the way there because I was nervous and didn't want to be away from home for so many months. And then, I remember crying on the way home because I don't want to leave." There are several other shared experiences like Paterra's that can be found in the same article by the PITTSBURGH TRIBUNE-REVIEW.
Studying abroad may not be for everyone, but if you are interested, check to see what programs your school offers. Many of our schools on AnyCollege offer study abroad programs.
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